Abaguzi b'imideli bo mu muryango w'ubumwe bw'ibihugu by'uburayi basabye imyenda irambye yemewe na GOTS yo mu myambarire yo mu mpeshyi ya 2027. Abacuruzi b'imideli bo muri Aziya batanze amabwiriza

TL;DR — Ibintu by'ingenzi byafashwe

Urwego rushinzwe kugenzura imiterere y'imyenda y'Umuryango w'Ubumwe bw'u Burayi

Nitwa Sherry Xiang, nkaba ndi Umuyobozi Ushinzwe Imari Irambye muri Dyon Fashion i Ningbo. Mu myaka itatu namaze ngenzura uburyo bwo gushakisha ibikoresho bitangiza ibidukikije no gukora ibikoresho bitangiza ibidukikije, nabonye uburyo bwo kugenzura imyenda burambye bw’Umuryango w’Ubumwe bw’u Burayi buhinduka kuva ku mabwiriza y’ubushake bujya mu buryo bwo gutanga amasoko bugena inganda z’imyenda zo muri Aziya zakira amabwiriza yo kugura n’izo zakira ubutumwa bwa “ibazo cyo kukubwira”.

Ingamba z’Ubumwe bw’u Burayi ku myenda irambye kandi izingira - zemejwe muri Werurwe 2022 none ubu zinjira mu cyiciro cyo gushyirwa mu bikorwa binyuze mu Itegeko Ngengamikorere ry’Ibicuruzwa Birambye (ESPR) - ritegeka ko bitarenze umwaka wa 2030, ibicuruzwa byose by’imyenda bishyirwa ku isoko ry’Ubumwe bw’u Burayi bigomba kuba biramba, bishobora gusanwa, kandi bishobora kongera gukoreshwa, bikozwe ahanini mu nsinga zasubiwemo, kandi bidafite ibintu byangiza. Kubera ko iri tegeko rishyiraho inshingano zemewe n'amategeko ku kirango cyangwa utumiza ibicuruzwa ku isoko ry'Ubumwe bw'u Burayi - atari ku ruganda rwo mu Bushinwa cyangwa muri Bangladesh - umutwaro wo kubahiriza amategeko unyura mu ruhererekane rw'ibicuruzwa ku ngufu z'itegeko ryo kugura: iki kirango gisaba icyemezo cya GOTS giturutse mu ruganda rw'imyenda, uruganda rw'imyenda rusaba icyemezo cya GOTS giturutse mu ruganda rw'imyenda, naho uruganda rw'imyenda rusaba icyemezo cya GOTS giturutse mu ruganda rutunganya imyenda n'ipamba ry'umwimerere.

Ingaruka z’ubucuruzi ku bacuruza imyenda yo muri Aziya ziragaragara kandi zipimirwa. Mu 2023, hafi 40% by’ibipimo ngenderwaho by’amafaranga ishami ryacu rirambye ryakiriye ku baguzi b’imyenda bo mu Burayi ryasabye icyemezo cya GOTS - abasigaye 60% basabye icyemezo cya GOTS nk’icy’inyungu cyangwa ntibakivuze. Mu 2025, uwo mubare warenze 80%, kandi imvugo yahindutse kuva ku giciro cyo guhitamo ijya ku giciro cyo guhitamo: "Umutanga agomba kugira icyemezo cya GOTS cyemewe. Ibiciro bidafite umubare w’icyemezo ntazasuzumwa." Kubera ko ibirango by’Umuryango w’Ubumwe bw’u Burayi birimo guhuza ibigo bikora ibicuruzwa byabo — bigabanya umubare w’inganda zemewe kuva kuri 20-30 kugeza kuri 5-10 nk’igice cy’ibisabwa mu igenzura ry’uruhererekane rw’ibicuruzwa hakurikijwe amabwiriza agenga imikorere y’ibigo (CSDDD) — inganda zashoye imari mu gutanga icyemezo cya GOTS kuva mu 2022 kugeza 2023 ubu ziri gufata isoko ridafite ishingiro kuko inganda zidafite ishingiro zakuwe ku rutonde rw’abagurisha bemewe.

Icyo icyemezo cya GOTS gisaba mu by'ukuri — n'icyo kidasaba

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) ni yo ngamba iyoboye ku isi mu gutunganya imyenda ku nsinga z’umwimerere. Ihamya ibintu bibiri icyarimwe: imiterere y’umwimerere y’umunyu ngugu (nibura 70% by’iminyu ngugu karemano yemewe n’amategeko agenga "yakozwe hakoreshejwe ikirango cy’umwimerere", nibura 95% by’ikirango cy’"umwimerere"), hamwe n’imiterere y’ibidukikije n’imibereho muri buri cyiciro cyo gutunganya - kuva kuri gin kugeza ku cyuma gitunganya irangi kugeza ku mudozi kugeza ku mudozi ushushanya imyenda kugeza ku ruganda rw’imyenda. Uruganda rukora imyenda ntirushobora gusaba icyemezo cya GOTS kuko rukoresha ubudodo bw’ipamba bw’umwimerere - rugomba kugaragaza ko ikigo cyarwo cyose, harimo gutunganya amazi yanduye, gucunga imiti ikoreshwa mu nganda, gukoresha ingufu, no kubahiriza amategeko agenga imibereho myiza y’abakozi, byujuje ibisabwa na GOTS.

Kubera ko icyemezo cya GOTS gishingiye ku nyubako zikorerwamo - atari ku nyubako zikorerwamo - uruganda rukora imyenda rufite ahantu hatatu ho gukorera imyenda rugomba kwemeza buri hantu ukwaho. Ikigo cyacu cya Ningbo cyatsinze igenzura rya GOTS mu 2024, kandi icyemezo cy’igenzura kigaragaza intambwe zihariye zo gutunganya imyenda twemewe gukora: kuboha, gusiga amarangi, gucapa no kurangiza imyenda iboshye ikozwe mu ipamba ry’umwimerere, lin y’umwimerere, na hemp y’umwimerere. Iyo umuguzi asabye imyenda iboshye yemewe na GOTS, ibyo binyuranyije n’icyemezo cyacu kandi ntidushobora kuyitanga - imbogamizi nshyiraho mu buryo busobanutse muri buri giciro kuko umuguzi wakira imyenda iboshye mu kigo cyemewe n’amategeko gusa ntashobora kuvuga ko yujuje ibisabwa na GOTS ku mwenda warangiye.

Icyemezo cy'ubucuruzi (TC) ni cyo mutima w'imikorere ya sisitemu ya GOTS. Iyo twohereje itsinda rya metero 2.000 z'imyenda y'umwimerere yemewe na GOTS ku ruganda rw'imyenda rwo muri Porutugali, dutanga TC yanditse: inomero y'icyemezo cyacu cya GOTS, umwirondoro w'umuguzi, ibisobanuro by'ibicuruzwa, imiterere ya fibre, igipimo cya fibre y'umwimerere, ingano ya batch, n'itariki yo kohereza. Kubera ko buri TC ifite inomero yihariye kandi ikaba yaranditswe muri database ya GOTS, ikigo gishinzwe kwemeza umuguzi gishobora gukurikirana umwenda uwo ari wo wose uva mu ruganda rw'imyenda ugana mu cyiciro cyose cyo gutunganya imyenda kugeza ku ipamba ry'umwimerere - kandi iyo hari isano iri muri uru ruhererekane idafite TC yemewe, ikirego cyose cya GOTS kirasenyuka. Umuguzi watakaje TC, cyangwa wemeye umwenda udafite, ntashobora kwemeza umwenda warangiye nubwo ikizamini cya laboratwari cyaba cyemeza ko umwenda ari ipamba y’umwimerere 100% — kuko GOTS yemeza inzira, atari ibicuruzwa gusa.

Impamvu OEKO-TEX na GOTS byuzuzanya, atari ibidakenewe cyane

Abaguzi b'ibihugu by'Uburayi bakomeje gusaba GOTS na OEKO-TEX Icyemezo cya 100 gisanzwe ku mwenda umwe - kandi iki cyemezo cyo kwemeza ibintu bibiri gikunze gutera urujijo abayobozi b'amasoko bakeka ko ibi bipimo byombi bihurirana. Ntabwo ari byo. GOTS yemeza imiterere y'umwimerere y'umunyu n'imiterere y'ibidukikije/imibereho y'abantu mu gutunganya. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 yemeza ko umusaruro w'imyenda warangiye - hatitawe ku nkomoko ya munyu - wageragejwe ku rutonde rw'ibintu birenga 100 byangiza kandi byagaragaye ko biri munsi y'umurongo ntarengwa w'umutekano w'ubuzima bw'abantu.

Igitambaro gishobora kwemezwa na GOTS nta cyemezo cya OEKO-TEX cyihariye - GOTS irimo isuzuma ry’umutekano w’ibinyabutabire nk'uko bisanzwe - naho igitambaro gishobora kwemezwa na OEKO-TEX kitari umwimerere. Impamvu abaguzi b’Umuryango w’Ubumwe bw’u Burayi basaba byombi ni ukwemerwa n’abaguzi: icyapa cya OEKO-TEX cyemewe cyane n’abaguzi b’i Burayi kuruta icyapa cya GOTS kuko OEKO-TEX yemeza ibicuruzwa byose by’imyenda - ibitanda, amasume, imyenda, imyenda - mu gihe GOTS yemerera imyenda y’umwimerere. Agapapuro kari ku birango byombi gatanga ubutumwa bubiri butandukanye: "iki gicuruzwa ni umwimerere" (GOTS) na "iki gicuruzwa cyapimwe neza" (OEKO-TEX).

Itsinda Umuryango wa Ellen MacArthurGahunda y’ubukungu bw’uruziga, nk’uko bigaragara muri gahunda ya EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, yongeraho ikindi kintu cya gatatu ku bijyanye n’ubuziranenge: kongera gukoreshwa. Igitambaro cyemewe na GOTS n’icya OEKO-TEX ariko kirimo insinga zivanze - ipamba y’umwimerere ivanze na polyester isanzwe - ntigishobora kongera gukoreshwa mu buryo bwa mashini mu muyoboro w’umuyoboro umwe. Kubera ko ibisabwa na ESPR byo kongera gukoresha imyenda biteganijwe ko bizatangira hagati ya 2027 na 2030, ibyemezo by’imiterere y’imyenda ibigo by’ubumwe bw’ibihugu by’uburayi bifata uyu munsi - ku biciro byabo byo mu mpeshyi 2027 - bizagena niba iyo myenda yujuje ibisabwa byo kongera gukoresha imyenda igihe iri tegeko rizaba ritangiye gukurikizwa byuzuye. Itsinda ryacu rishinzwe iterambere ry’imyenda irambye ubu riri gukora ku 100% by’ipamba y’umwimerere n’imvange y’ipamba y’umwimerere-TENCEL™ Lyocell ikomeza gukoresha icyemezo cya GOTS mu gihe ishobora kongera gukoreshwa mu buryo bw’ikoranabuhanga mu gihe cy’ibiza — ingamba abaguzi b’ingufu bo mu muryango w’ubumwe bw’ibihugu by’Uburayi bateganya ku ikusanyirizo rya 2028-2029 rimaze gukorwa.

Uburyo gahunda ya Dyon's OEM Sustainable Fabric ikora

Ibyacu OEM Gahunda irambye y'imyenda ku bicuruzwa by'imyenda byo mu Burayi ikurikira gahunda nagize yo kunoza binyuze mu nzira nyinshi zo kwakira abaguzi. Kubera ko igihe cyo gushakisha imyenda mu kinyabutabire cy’ubumwe bw’ibihugu by’Uburayi - kuva ku isuzuma rya mbere kugeza ku itegeko rya mbere ryo kuyitunganya - kimara amezi 4-6, nateguye gahunda yacu kugira ngo mpabwe inyandiko n’ibipimo abaguzi bakeneye muri buri cyiciro cy’inzira yabo yo kwemerera imbere mu gihugu.

Icyumweru cya 1-2: Isuzuma ry'impamyabumenyi. Umuguzi ahabwa ipaki yacu yuzuye y’impamyabushobozi — icyemezo cya GOTS scope, icyemezo cya OEKO-TEX Standard 100, n’icyemezo cy’icyitegererezo cy’ibikorwa — kugira ngo itsinda rye rishinzwe kubahiriza amategeko risuzume. Dutanga kandi raporo yacu iheruka y’igenzura ry’amategeko agenga imibereho myiza y’abaturage (SMETA 4-pillar cyangwa bingana nayo) hamwe n’ububiko bwacu bw’ibinyabutabire, kuko ibigo by’ubumwe bw’ibihugu by’Uburayi bigenzura uruganda rushya rw’imyenda akenshi bisuzuma inyandiko zishingiye ku bidukikije n’imibereho y’abaturage mbere yo gusaba ingero zifatika.

Icyumweru cya 3-4: Gupima imyenda. Dushingiye ku bipimo by’umuguzi — imiterere ya fibre, imiterere y’ubudodo, uburemere (gsm), ubugari, ibara, n’irangira — dukora udupira two muri laboratwari dufite ingano ya A4 (guhuza amabara) n’ibipimo by’imyenda ya metero 2 mu minsi 10 y’akazi. Kubera ko kwemererwa kw'amabara ari cyo cyiciro gitwara igihe kinini cyo gushaka imyenda - itsinda ry'abashushanya ry'umuguzi risuzuma amatara ya laboratwari munsi y'urumuri rwa D65, rigereranije n'amabara y'igihembwe, kandi akenshi risaba ko habaho impinduka 2-3 - ndasaba abaguzi gusaba ko amabara yabo yose y'igihembwe ashyirwa muri laboratwari icyarimwe aho kuyashyira mu byiciro bikurikirana, bigabanyiriza igihe cyo kwemererwa kw'amabara kuva ku byumweru 6-8 kugeza ku byumweru 3-4.

Icyumweru cya 5-8: Mbere yo gukora no gutumiza bwa mbere. Iyo ibipimo by'imyenda n'amabara byemejwe, dukora metero 50 mbere yo kuyitunganya kugira ngo uruganda rw'imyenda rw'umuguzi ruyikoreshe mu gukata no kuyidoda mu myenda y'icyitegererezo. Iki cyiciro kigaragaza ko imyenda ikora nk'uko byitezwe mu gukata, kudoda, kuyikanda no kuyimesa - imiterere idashobora gupimwa n'isuzuma ry'intoki gusa. Iyo byemejwe mbere yo kuyitunganya, itegeko rya mbere ryo kuyitunganya ritangwa mu minsi 30-35 y'akazi uhereye igihe byemejwe, kandi icyemezo cy'ubucuruzi gitangwa iyo cyoherejwe.

Niba uri umuyobozi ushinzwe amasoko cyangwa umuyobozi ushinzwe kubungabunga ibidukikije mu kirango cy’imideli cy’i Burayi gisuzuma abatanga imyenda bemewe na GOTS ku biciro byawe byo mu mpeshyi ya 2027 cyangwa nyuma yaho, Ndagutumiye kunyandikira kuri Dyon Fashion. Nzaguha ipaki yacu y’impamyabushobozi, igitabo cy’icyitegererezo cy’imyubakire yacu irambye, hamwe n’igihe cy’ingano y’ibyo watumije — akenshi mu minsi 5 y’akazi uhereye igihe wabanje kubaza.